NATURAL VEGETABLE FIBRES
STEMS
In order to produce yarns vegetable fibres can be extracted from the stalks, the leaves or the seed pods of
specific plants.
Flax, Jute, Ramie and
Hemp fibres are all obtained from plant stems.
The most well known stalk/stem fibre is flax,
from which linen yarn is produced,
but Jute, Ramie and Hemp yarns are all popular yarns used by textile artists
and crafts-people.
More recently because of it's environmentally sound cultivation process
Hemp has found favour with the Fashion
and Knit Industries,
and is fast
becoming recognised as an important new material.
Flax (linen)
- Flax is the raw material of linen
- The long fibres come from the woody stem of the flax plant,
Linum usistatissimum
- The plant grows to a height of about 1m (3 feet) tall,
it is spicky and has blue, or sometimes white, flowers
- It is the only natural vegetable fibre indigenous to Western Europe
- Flax is cultivated for the production of linseed oil as well as for
textile fibres
- From July to mid-August, the flax is harvested by pulling up
rather than cutting the stems
- The seeds are extracted from the seed pods for linseed oil production,
then the plant is 'retted' to decompose the adhesive that
binds the fibres together
- Next the plant is 'scutched' a mechanical process which
seperates the textile fibres from the bark and woody matter,
and removes the short fibres
- After scutching, the fibre is combed,
and slightly twisted to form a sliver or rove
- The rove is then spun to produce yarn
- There are two methods of spinning flax fibres
- 'Wet spinning' produces a very fine and regular linen yarn
- 'Dry spinning' produces a coarser slightly rough linen yarn
Jute (Hessian)
- Jute is mostly grown in India, Bangladesh and Thailand
- It comes from the stem of the Corchorus plant
- The plant grows to 2.5-5m (8-15feet) high, but the fibres are
only 15-30cms (6-12 inches) long
- After flowering the plant is harvested by cutting
close to the ground
- The fibres are extracted by retting, then they are washed and dried
- Natural Jute fibres are yellowish-brown in colour with a
lustrous finish and little elasticity
- Jute is the weakest of the stem fibres, but is stronger than cotton
- It is a low-cost fibre used for making rugs, carpet backing and packaging
Ramie
- Ramie comes from the Boehmeria nivea plant (China grass)
- It is grown in China, but is also cultivated in Japan, Russia,
and parts of the USA and Europe
- The fibres are short, about 15cm (6inches)
- After retting the ribbons of fibre are stripped from the stalk
- They are then chemically treated to remove the pectin gum
and seperate the fibres ready for spinning
- Ramie is coarser than Flax, but more lustrous
- It is silky, fine and strong and pure white in colour
- It is used for making rope, twine and nets, but it can also be blended with cotton
to produce clothing, such as shirts and blouses
Hemp
- Hemp is a very ancient fibre, coming originaly from China
- It is now grown in Russia and Japan as well as China
- The fibres come from the plant Cannabis sativa or cannabis indica
- The plant grows to about 3m (10 feet) tall
- Hemp is the strongest textile fibre, being four times stronger than cotton
- It has high insulation properties, cool in summer, warm in winter
- The cultivation of Hemp is an environmentally friendly process
Click on 'next page'
to read about vegetable leaf fibres