yarn count, an overview

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YARN COUNT

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overview

AN OVERVIEW

The aim of these pages is to attempt to unravel the mystery surounding those numbers.
What does 2/32's mean? Is it thicker or thinner than 30 tex? and what is 60/2 Nm?

The section begins with a general overview,
then looks in more detail at the various count systems,
continues with some conversion and comparison charts
and ends with a look at machine sewing threads.

Most handknitters are used to thinking in terms of ply when considering the thickness of yarn and thread.

However the word ply only describes the number of single ends of yarn
that have been twisted together to form a useable yarn.

Ply does not accurately describe the thickness or thinness of yarn.
It must be appreciated that one brand of 4ply yarn can be vastly different in thickness to that of another brand of 4ply.

The thickness or size of a specific yarn or thread, is known as it's Linear Density.

This describes the relationship of yarn or thread length to it's weight
In order to calculate linear density a given length of yarn is measured and weighed.

Each yarn is then labeled with a numerical value.

Sounds simple, but unfortunately that is not the case.
Over the years several different methods of making these calculations have evolved
leading to confusion and misunderstanding,
making it difficult to compare yarn and thread sizes from one source, with those of another.

However all these different methods can be said to fall into
one of two basic, but distinctly different classifications.

either the fixed weight system or the fixed length system

Fixed weight system

This is based on the length of yarn that makes up a given weight
The weight is fixed and the length is variable, so the numbers you see relate to length
This is the original and traditional method used for calculating the thickness of a yarn
The method is also known as the 'indirect system' or count
The count or indirect system is very complex
Each fibre, (wool, cotton, worsted, silk, etc.) uses a slightly different method of calculation
To further complicate matters, some countries and locations have developed their own variations of the system

Fixed length system

Also called the 'direct system' or the 'direct number system'
This system is based on the weight of a given length of yarn
So the numbers you see refer to this weight
It is a metric system which involves much simpler methods of calculation

In 1956, The International Organisation for Standardisation ,
decided that it would make more sense if there was only one universal system.
It was suggested that the TEX system,
which is a fixed length, direct system, should be adopted world wide.
Many spinners and manufactures have adopted this method as their standard
but large sections of the industry have not, and still continue to use the traditional methods.

However, over the last few years support for the idea has grown,
and the Standardisation Organisation is confident that in the not too distant future,
the Tex system will be accepted as the world wide standard.

Click on 'next page' to look at each system in more detail

overview